What are antioxidants? Antioxidants are compounds that protect (and neutralizes) free radical cell damage that leads to premature ageing or even cancer. Free radicals are produced in the skin by many environmental stresses mainly pollution, and the sun. Our products are full of Anti-oxidants, and active anti-aging ingredients.
What are
Alpha hydroxy acids?
They are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs included in cosmetics are synthetic. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing that they have any benefit for skin. AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs are widely used for therapy of photo damaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid (Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156–1162; Cutis, August 2001, pages 135–142; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pages 280–284; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81–88; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111–119; Dermatologic Surgery, August 1997, pages 689–694 and May 2001 pages 1–5; Journal of Cell Physiology, October 1999, pages 14–23; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 1996, pages 867–875).Because AHAs exfoliate sun-damaged skin from the surface of the skin, and because this layer imparts some (albeit minimal) sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity after using an AHA (Source: Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2003, pages 21–27). However, wearing a sunscreen eliminates this risk.
What are Amino Acids? The “building blocks” of protein. A group of biological chemical compounds containing nitrogen.
What does the word botanical mean? Products that contain plant-based ingredients.
What are Emollients?
A skin conditioning agent which helps maintain the smooth, soft pliable appearance of the skin. Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Water is the best emollient, but because it evaporates quickly it is ineffective. It needs to be held on the skin by emollient oils in what is called an emulsion. Synthetic emollients are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin and do not allow it to respire (much like plastic wrap), which can cause skin irritation. Some synthetic emollients can accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes. They are also nonbiodegradable, causing a negative environmental impact. Natural emollients actually nourish the skin. They are metabolized by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality. Some Natural Emollients Plant Oils (e.g. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa and Jojoba Butters.
What are Essential Fatty Acids?
Essential fatty acids (EFAs) are fats that are essential to the diet because the body cannot produce them. Essential fatty acids are extremely important nutrients for health. They are present in every healthy cell in the body, and are critical for the normal growth and functioning of the cells, muscles, nerves, and organs. Those that are lacking in the proper intake of Essential Fatty Acids may demonstrate seriously dry skin or they may be prone to more serious skin conditions including psoriasis and eczema. Using carrier oils that are rich in essential fatty acids and including a diet rich in Essential Fatty Acids can significantly help nourish and improve the look and feel of the skin. Essential Fatty Acids are generally organized into two groups: Omega-3 Essential Fatty Acids and Omega-6 Essential Fatty Acids. The hardest to acquire EFAs are the Omega-3 group. Omega-3 Essential Fatty Acids: Alpha linolenic acid is the primary Omega-3 Essential Fatty Acid found in plants. Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) are more beneficial than Alpha linolenic acid, but EPA and DHA are only present in fish oil. Omega-6 Essential Fatty Acids: Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) and linoleic acid are examples of Omega-6 Essential Fatty Acids found in plant oils.Omega-7 and Omega-9 Fatty Acids; you may occasionally read about Omega-7 or Omega-9 Fatty Acids. Omega-7 and Omega-9 Fatty Acids are not considered Essential Fatty Acids. The body can manufacture these fatty acids.
What is an Exfoliant?
A product or ingredient that is used to remove dead skin cells or smooth rough areas from the skins surface. The gentle abrasive action of an exfoliant removes dirt and sloughs off dead skin cells leaving the skin soft and radiant, and prepares the skin for maximum absorption of skincare products. Made from many different types of ingredients they have various levels of roughness.
What are Emulsifiers?
They hold two ingredients together that normally don’t mix. This can either be a physical substance (like a wax) or a physical action (shake well before use!). Synthetic emulsifiers are usually petroleum/hydrocarbon derivatives and can be allergens. Natural emulsifiers are obtained from various nuts, berries and leaves. Some Natural Emulsifiers Plant Waxes (e.g. Candelilla, Carnauba, Jojoba, Rice Bran) Xanthan Gum Quince Seed.
What are Free Radicals?
Very reactive atoms or molecules that cause damage to our cells impair our immune system and lead to premature or strong signs of aging.Free radicals are produced in the skin by many environmental stresses mainly pollution, and damaging UV radiation.
What is a Genetically Modified Organism (GMO)?
A plant, animal, or microorganism that is transformed by genetic engineering. A product that is the result of genetic engineering is called a “product of genetic engineering” or a “derivative of GMOs” depending on the circumstances. It is felt by some that the use of GM crops unnecessarily risks the health of the population and the environment due to insufficient knowledge to safely and predictably modify plant genomes.
What are the benefits of Herbs?
Derived from plants, herbs are vegetable matter used in the form of the leaves, flowers or roots. Their use throughout history for thousands of years is well documented as both effective and safe in the treatment of humans and animals. Herbs and plant-derived ingredients are intuitively and instinctively absorbed into the body to act upon, and help, with the bodies own healing abilities.
What are Humectants?
The main purpose of any cream is to keep the skin moist. Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss. Even a natural humectant, glycerin, actually attracts water from the air and surrounding tissue. It keeps the skin moist as long as there is sufficient moisture in the air. In a dry climate it actually draws moisture from the skin. Collagen, elastin and keratin enjoy some popularity as humectants. Whilst they are compatible with the skin and deposit a protective film, they are usually sourced from animals and therefore cannot be termed “cruelty free”. Some skin care companies would like you to believe that your skin can use special animal proteins to rejuvenate and replace aging cells. This is nonsense! The sizes of the molecules, even when broken down (hydrolysed), are far too large to penetrate the skin. Even if they could get in, they would be immediately rejected as foreign matter and attacked by the immune system. Natural phospholipids, from lecithin, are fantastic humectants. An important benefit of phospholipids is that they are hygroscopic (attract water from the surrounding air) and hold water where an increased level of hydration is needed. Therefore, phospholipids increase the hydration levels of the skin without being occlusive (forming a film to prevent water loss, and preventing normal cellular function).A recent study proved the value of topically applied phospholipids in skin care. It found that environmental factors (sun, wind, pollution) and the detergents and solvents found in most skin cleansers, actually stripped the natural phospholipid content from the top layer of skin. This loss resulted in a rough feel and a pitted appearance under a microscope. Importantly, the phospholipids in the uppermost skin layers cannot be replaced by natural cell function, as the top layer of cells no longer metabolize; they serve only as a protective barrier. Remarkably, the study showed that topically applied plant phospholipids restore the barrier function of the skin, protecting it from substances such as bacteria and harmful synthetic chemicals. Some Natural Humectants – Lecithin, Glycerin.
What are Hydrosols?
Hydrosols are created through hydro distillation, a process in which the essential molecular content of plants and flowers are extracted in water. Small batches of the plant material are heated immersed in water inside a glass distillation system. The cellular qualities of the plant are captured and condensed in the resulting steam. As the vapor transforms back to liquid form it immediately resonates with the molecular frequency of the plant and is virtually identical. This water solution or carrier medium used in the distillation process becomes the pure hydrosol.
What is the main difference between ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ ingredients?
The ‘natural’ ingredients are unaltered, untreated, are not artificial and have nature as the ingredients’ source. An organic certification body ensures that the organic ingredients are cultivated without using synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and other synthetic chemicals.
An organic ingredient is a natural ingredient cultivated without synthetic chemicals, fertilizers and pesticides; but a natural ingredient may not necessarily be organic.
What are Parabens and why are they harmful?
Parabens are a group of chemicals that are known as synthetic preservatives in many conventional cosmetic products so that their products can have a long shelf life. Common parabens include methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben. The reason is purely economical. However, studies suggest that they may cause cancer and interfere with the body’s endocrine system, as well as causing allergic reactions and skin rashes. Parabens are absorbed through intact skin and from the gastrointestinal tract and blood. U.K. researchers found measurable concentrations of six different parabens in 20 human breast tumors. The study highlights the need for more research on the potential link between products containing parabens and increased breast cancer risk (Source – www.safecosmetics.org).
What role do Preservatives have?
The decaying process is natural and happens with or without preservatives. Skin care products do not (and should not) last for ever. Just like food, all natural skin care products will eventually deteriorate and go rancid. The effectiveness, not safety, of synthetic chemical preservatives has only been “proven” by animal testing. Synthetic chemical preservatives are generally used because they are much cheaper than, and extend the shelf life of the product more than natural alternatives. Storing natural products in the fridge will help extend their life.
What are Peptides?
Peptides are the basic structural unit of collagen. The appearance of skin mainly depends on the Collagen structure, the most important protein family of the dermal connective tissue. Collagen is involved in a large array of biological functions including maintenance of structural integrity, cell adhesion, tissue remodeling, and skin repair. By prompting collagen synthesis, peptides contribute to decrease the visual appearance of wrinkles and increase skin firmness and thickness.
What are Surfactants?
Surface-active-agents are substances capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away with water. They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos. A serious problem with ethoxylated surfactants (those that utilize ethylene or propylene oxide in the chemical reaction) is that they can be contaminated with dioxane, a potent carcinogen. These surfactants are listed on labels as ingredients ending with –eth, (like laureth) or containing the phrase PEG (Polyethylene Glycol), or PPG (Polypropylene Glycol).Another dangerous class of surfactants are amides. These are listed on labels containing the term TEA –TriEthanolAmine, DEA – DiEthanolAmine and MEA, MonoEthanolAmine. All compounds containing TEA, DEA and MEA can undergo nitrosation with other synthetic chemicals to form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. Natural saponins (foaming agents) are a much better choice for shampoos as they gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping the natural oils. Some Natural Surfactants Castile Soap Yucca Extract Soapwort Quillaja Bark Extract.
Sources: Narelle Chenery Director of Onegroup. and also at www.skindeep.org
